TAIL LIGHT CONVERSION (rear turn signal eliminator)
This conversion was developed and submitted by
Doug Thomas ZRXOA #746.

Converter

This modification eliminates the rear turn signals, integrating them into the tail lamp with the help of a "trailer light converter". Converters are normally used to hook a trailer with a single lamp system (one bulb per side) to a tow vehicle with a dual lamp system (two bulbs per side). This modification MAY be illegal in your area, if so I assume NO responsibility for any legal problems you may run into. For what it's worth, I was pulled over for speeding, and the officer complimented me on the clean "factory" look of the conversion.

Materials needed:
Trailer light converter . These are available at most auto parts stores for around $15.00-$20.00
Two H-1157 light bulbs. You can get these from most aftermarket cycle parts suppliers, I found them at Dennis Kirk for about $8.00 each.
Clear Silicone sealant. Auto parts store, about $4.00 a tube.
Sheet Aluminum. I used "flashing" from the local hardware store. It costs about $5.00 for a roll that will last you a lifetime.
Zip Ties. For mounting the converter to the bike. About $4.00 for a bag of fifty at the local parts store.
"Scotch Lock" electrical connecters. Hardware store, about $5.00 for a box.
Step One, Modifying the Tail lamp housing.
Remove seat, toolbox, grab bars, and rear cowling.
Remove the tail lamp. Don't cut any wires, just remove the sockets with a twist.
Split the tail lamp lens from the housing. This is the hardest part of the job, take it slowly and use plenty of boiling water to soften the glue holding the lens to the housing. Gently pry the housing from the lens, using a wide flat-bladed screwdriver, pouring hot water on the joint as you separate it. Once the parts are separated, remove as much of the glue as you can (this makes reassembly a LOT easier).
Using the template in the picture, trace the shape of the divider onto the sheet aluminum. Cut out the divider with a pair of scissors. Fold the tab at the dotted line to a 90 degree angle. This tab will end up sitting on the "shelf" at the top of the tail lamp housing.
Test fit the divider by taping it to the tail lamp housing, as shown in the picture. Trim it as needed with scissors, and if you trim too much, make a new divider. It's important for the divider to fit fairly tight, if light leaks from one side to the other, this conversion is useless.
Once you are satisfied with the dividers fit to the housing & lens, glue it in place with silicone sealer. Glue at the 90 degree fold, and run a fillet of silicone along the curved part where it contacts the housing. Let the silicone set up for a few hours before the next step.
Is the divider firmly glued to the housing? If so, lay a bead of silicone in the groove around the perimeter of the housing where the lens fits. Fit the lens to the housing (this takes a fair amount of pressure, be careful not to break anything.) That's it for step one... take a break, shine a flashlight through the holes where the light sockets go and amaze your friends.
Step Two, Modifying the Wiring Harness.
Remove the rear turn signals, unplug them from the harness, don't cut the wiring.
Determine a good location for the tail light converter. I mounted mine on top of the toolbox, under the rear cowling, using zip ties. If you mount yours on the toolbox, be sure to leave enough slack in the harness to allow toolbox movement (so you have room for the wrench, during grab handle installation). Mount the converter where ever you decide to, just make sure that it's out of the weather and secured against vibration.
Unplug the tail/brake light harness from the main harness. Cut the BLUE wires to the tail/brake lights, leaving enough room so you can splice them back later if you want to.
Using Scotch Lock connecters, connect the wires going IN to the converter from the main bike harness as follows. The connections in this step are to the IN side of the converter, where there are FIVE wires.
- Connect the WHITE (ground) wire on the converter to the BLACK w/YELLOW STRIPE wire on the main harness.
- Connect the BROWN (running lamp) wire on the converter to the RED wire on the main harness.
- Connect the YELLOW (left turn signal) wire on the converter to the PALE GREEN wire on the main harness.
- Connect the RED (brake) wire on the converter to the BLUE w/RED STRIPE wire on the main harness.
- Connect the GREEN (right turn signal) wire on the converter to the GREY wire on the main harness.
Using scotch lock connecters, connect the wires coming OUT of the converter to the tail lamp as follows. The connections in this step are to the OUT side of the converter, where you will find FOUR wires.
- Connect the WHITE (ground) wire on the converter to the BLACK w/YELLOW STRIPE wire on the tail lamp pigtail.
- Connect the BROWN (running lamp) wire on the converter to the TWO RED wires on the tail lamp pigtail.
- Connect the YELLOW (left turn signal) wire on the converter to the BLUE wire on the LEFT tail lamp pigtail.
- Connect the GREEN (right turn signal) wire on the converter to the BLUE wire on the RIGHT tail lamp pigtail.
At this point, the wiring is done. Turn on the ignition and check to see that the lights work correctly. If not, go back and recheck your wiring carefully. The turn signals will flash very rapidly when the brake light is on, to eliminate this, install the H1157 (halogen) bulbs in the FRONT running lamps. The extra electrical load will cause the flasher to slow down to a normal rate. Do NOT install the halogen bulbs in the rear, they are too bright, and tend to "wash out" each other when in the same housing.
Replace the tail lamp, rear cowling, grab bars, toolbox, & seat There you go, that's all there is to it! Now, for the next step, you can get rid of that ugly "mud-flap" looking rear fender see Fender and Turn Signal Mod. Use the info for cutting the fender, disregard the lamp re-installation